Double weave/width weaving

I’m gearing up for the Ravelympics, for which I’ll be weaving (or at least attempting to weave) a loom shaped coat.  I got the idea from the November 1981 issue of Handwoven.  The magazine calls for weaving a 5 yd strip 24″ wide then cutting and seaming.  Being as one of my goals for this year is learning to weave double weave, I’m going to weave it double weave in plain weave (the one in the magazine is in twill) so I don’t have to seam it up the back.  In preparation, I’ve been doing the knitting equivalent of swatching by sampling.

First I had to make sure that I understood how double weave weaving works and that I could actually make it open on one side.  I have 2 large cones of a cotton and acrylic blend, which was what I planned on using.  Using a very short warp, I found that the yarn isn’t strong enough to use.  Broken ends, boo.  I then found some mohair.  This isn’t going to work either.  It’s actually quite strong and holds up as warp, but the fuzz was over the top.  I also found that I have some issues.

This doesn’t look like plain weave.  I checked the document that I’m using and I’m doing it right.  I smooshed the weft yarns farther apart and it does look like plain weave so I’m either beating way too hard or I have the sett wrong.  I used wraps per inch (14), divided by 2 (7), and used 7 epi for the yarn.  Because it’s double-width, I warped it at 14 epi.

I then tried some cotton ripple that I bought from R&M Yarns, while I still lived in GA and before they were sold and moved. It’s also 14 wpi.  Instead of using 7 epi, I used 10, which means I warped it at 20 epi.  Confused yet? 🙂 I tried the above mohair as weft and while I still got somewhat of the same smooshed looking effect, it looks more like plain weave.  I tried a thinner yarn  (8/2 cotton) as the weft, which didn’t turn out so hot.  Next I used some thicker yarn.

That’s more like it.  This piece is still on the loom.  When I wove it, I was weaving 2 inches.  I loosened the front apron bar so I could open it up and take a picture, and it’s about 4 inches wide.  I also wanted to see how my left selvedge, which ends up being in the middle of the piece, looked.  Despite all the warning, my middle is actually good.  I’m also proud of the edges because I think they look pretty darn good.  The green is some Picadilly that I’d bought from Elann and the purple is some Cascade Sierra, again both being purchased before we moved from Georgia.  I’m trying to use up some stash if you couldn’t tell.  After all, that was the reason I started weaving.

While the purple and the green both give me more of the effect I want, none of these yarns were the ones I wanted to use.  Since it’s something that I only plan to wear around the house, I guess it’s okay.  It’s also possible I’ll like them more after I give it a toss in the wash and dry.  I still have a few more (HAHAHA a few!) yarns that I can try so I might find something I like better.

PS. I know that my sample is ultra small and doesn’t represent an exact fabric that I’ll end up with.

4 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Janice in GA
    Feb 10, 2010 @ 13:49:24

    Cool. I think you’re on the right track!


  2. Beth
    Feb 10, 2010 @ 14:06:33

    I have no idea what you just said, but I can tell that it looks very good! Everything is even and looks great!


  3. Lynnette
    Feb 11, 2010 @ 10:01:20

    I have done a fair bit of doubleweave and the sett that you need is twice as much as you would use normally. For 8/2 cotton which you would usually sett at 20 epi for plain weave, you need 40 epi for doubleweave. This is because you are essentially weaving 2 separate cloths at the same time. You then aim for 20 ppi for each cloth, so 40 ppi would be correct for a firm 50/50 cloth.
    I’m looking forward to seeing your completed project, but cudo’s to you for sampling with different yarns.


  4. Peg in South Carolina
    Feb 11, 2010 @ 12:32:30

    Since this is all so new to you, when you finally settle on the yarn, you might weave a sample using it as well. If not, it would be a good idea to put on extra warp so that you can sample at the beginning to make sure you’ve got everything right and can make changes in sett and/or beat if you need to.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: